Cold-Start Pasta with Lemon Umami Butter

Ingredients

• 1 lb penne rigate or rigatoni (bronze-cut preferred, such as De Cecco)
• 4 cup water (cold)
• kosher salt (to taste)
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter (cut into pieces)
• 2 tbsp lemon juice (freshly squeezed)
• 1 tsp lemon zest (finely grated)
• 1 tbsp soy sauce or miso paste (for umami depth)
• black pepper (freshly ground, to taste)

Steps

1. 1

   Place the pasta, cold water, and a pinch of salt in a large Dutch oven or wide pot. The water should just barely cover the pasta.

2. 2

   Bring the water to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to prevent the noodles from sticking to the bottom.

3. 3

   Continue to cook at a vigorous boil, stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente and the water has reduced to a thick, starchy glaze that coats the bottom of the pot, about 10 to 12 minutes. Do not drain the water.

4. 4

   Reduce the heat to low. Add the butter pieces, lemon juice, lemon zest, and soy sauce (or miso).

5. 5

   Stir or toss vigorously until the butter melts and emulsifies with the starchy pasta water to create a creamy, glossy sauce.

6. 6

   Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt, pepper, or lemon juice as needed. Serve immediately while the sauce is silky.

Notes

Using bronze-drawn pasta is essential for this recipe because the rough surface releases more starch, which is required to thicken the sauce without cream. If the water evaporates before the pasta is cooked, add more boiling water 1/4 cup at a time.

Nutrition per serving

• main
• pasta
• vegetarian
• one-pot
• quick-dinner
• lemon
• umami