French Mashed Potatoes (Pommes Purée)

Ingredients

• 2 lb russet potatoes (Use moderately sized potatoes, about 8 ounces each; do not peel before baking or ricing.)
• 2 cup kosher salt (For the bed of salt; most of the salt is discarded and is not eaten.)
• 1 cup whole milk (Heat with the salt and white pepper; strain before adding to the potatoes.)
• 1 tsp white peppercorns (Infuse in the milk, then strain out to prevent gritty bits.)
• 8 oz unsalted butter (Keep cold and cut into pieces; whisk in after the hot milk.)

Steps

1. 1

   Heat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Spread the kosher salt in an even layer in a baking dish or on a rimmed baking sheet, then arrange the whole russet potatoes on top.

2. 2

   Bake the potatoes until a skewer or thin knife passes easily through the centers and the skins are browned, about 1½ to 2 hours. The potatoes should be fully tender inside before proceeding.

3. 3

   While the potatoes bake, combine the milk, white peppercorns, and salt in a small saucepan. Warm over medium-low heat until steaming; do not let the milk boil. Remove from the heat and let the pepper infuse.

4. 4

   When the potatoes are hot, halve them. Working with one half at a time, place it cut-side down in a potato ricer and press firmly. The cooked flesh should pass through the perforations while the skin remains in the hopper. Do not cool or peel the potatoes before ricing.

5. 5

   Strain the warm milk through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the peppercorns and any gritty particles.

6. 6

   Transfer the riced potatoes to a saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and cook, stirring gently, until excess moisture has evaporated and the potatoes look slightly drier, about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not brown them.

7. 7

   Add the hot strained milk to the potatoes in a slow stream, whisking continuously until smooth and evenly hydrated. Dissolving the salt in the milk distributes the seasoning throughout the purée.

8. 8

   Add the cold butter a few pieces at a time, whisking after each addition until fully incorporated before adding more. Continue until the purée is glossy, supple, and completely smooth.

9. 9

   Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Transfer the pommes purée to a warmed serving bowl or dish and serve immediately.

Notes

A potato ricer is essential for a perfectly smooth texture; a masher will leave the potatoes less refined. For make-ahead preparation, cool the purée after adding the butter, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Rewarm in a saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring with a silicone spatula, until bubbles break the surface, about 10 minutes; no additional milk or butter is needed.

Nutrition per serving

• side dish
• French
• vegetarian
• gluten-free
• stovetop
• baked potatoes
• make-ahead
• holiday